Rarotonga

Updated May 2020
Kia Orana, Rarotonga is a popular island holiday destination for Kiwis and has an impressive tourism infrastructure for an island of its size. At 32km in circumference it's relatively small, and you can drive the flat, coastal road in around 45 minutes. A reef encircles the island and in parts the water is clear, the sand golden and the fish life colourful. The climate is tropical and the average temperature is around 24°C. (Cyclone season runs November - April but cyclones aren't frequent visitors and arrive with prior warning).

Mr Jake Numanga - a living legend - has welcomed & farewelled visitors at the airport for many years - Meitaki ma'ata

The island has accommodation to suit a backpacker budget and beyond, self contained rental accommodation is plentiful and there are good quality resorts and luxury villas. Scooters (new helmet laws and licence requirements apply) are popular transport for locals and visitors and there are plenty of reasonably priced scooter and car hire options. There are also public buses that circle the island in both directions. Food and drink can be expensive as a lot of it is imported, however we dine out for most of our meals and prices are similar to New Zealand.

Greetings

Hello: Kia Orana ("may you live long")
Good bye: Aere ra
Thank you: Meitaki
Cheers: Kia manuia

Good To Know

Language: Cook Islands Maori (15 dialects spoken over the 15 islands that make up the Cook Islands), English is widely spoken. Cook Islands Maori Dictionary.

Capital: Avarua on Rarotonga.

Population: Approximately 13,044 on Rarotonga, total population 17,459 (2016 Census information).

Currency: New Zealand dollar along with Cook Islands coins - $1, $2, and $5 dollars, and 5, 10, 20 and 50 cent coins.

Official Tourism website: www.cookislands.travel. The Visitor Information Centre is in Avarua next to ANZ Bank.

Transport: Public buses, scooters, cars and bicycles - pedal and electric. There are taxis but they don't drive around looking for fares, you need to call them. Raro Tours provide airport transfers, a lot of accommodation providers will also offer airport transfers (around $15pp one way).

Licence to drive: Cars - Visitors from Australia, NZ, US, Canada, UK and the EU can drive cars using their own licence, there is no need to get a Cook Islands licence. Scooters - If you want to hire a scooter and don't have a full motorcycle licence you need to get a visitors motorcycle licence - see Important - Please Read via Adventure Cooks Islands scooter hire.

Rarotonga International Airport: The airport is 3 kms from Avarua. Air Rarotonga is the domestic airline. Air New Zealand, Virgin Australia and Jet Star fly from NZ. There is an Air New Zealand International Lounge at the airport, depending on how busy it is the lounge may only be open to members, not their guests.

Religion: Over half the population belongs to the Cook Islands Christian Church. Others may be Mormons, followers of the Baha'i Faith, Seventh Day Adventists or Jehovah Witnesses.

Banks: ANZ, Bank of South Pacific and Bank of the Cook Islands. There are a number of ATMs on the island.

Sunday: Sunday is dedicated to church, family and rest. Bars and eating establishments may be closed.

Water: If in doubt, boil the tap water. Bottled water is sold in village shops, and supermarkets. The local water is Vaima and it can be delivered to your accommodation.

Festivals and Events: Cook Islands Events Calendar.

Whale watching: July - October, A where, what and how to guide.

What to wear? Casual dress is the way to go, although if you intend to go to church pack something smart. Cover up when you're at the market, in town or in villages.

24 hour, 7 day a week fuel & food: Oasis Energy in Nikao (west of Avarua, near the airport).

Mosquitoes / Travel Warnings: I'm a mosquito beacon but they haven't been an issue for me in the coastal areas. It's best to go prepared though, and if you explore the island's mountainous interior you'll definitely need repellent. Visit Safe Travel to see if there are any travel or health related warnings for the Cook Islands.

Avarua

Avarua is Rarotonga's small town centre and has the usual facilities like banks, Foodland for groceries, souvenir shops, CITC pharmacy, cafes, bars and Empire Movie Theatre. You'll also find the Police Station where you need to go if you don't have a full motorcycle licence but would like to hire a scooter. Avarua is a lovely little town centre - it's clean, it's not too busy, there are no $2 type shops, and it's a hassle free place to visit, as is the whole island of Rarotonga.

Early on Saturday morning Punanga Nui Market opens to sell local food and produce, and local art / craft work. You can buy souvenirs like colourful bags, Cook Islands Pate (drums), t-shirts and pareu (sarongs). It's likely you'll also see Te Korero Maori Cultural Dance Group perform. A number of tourist operators will be at the market so it's also a chance to find out more about what's offered on the island. The market is definitely worth visiting, there are some stalls open during the week, but Saturday is THE day to visit, it's best to get there before 12 noon.

SPCA Op Shop
The SPCA Op Shop at Punanga Nui Market welcomes donations of items to sell. On Saturday mornings you may also meet some of the dogs looking for new homes. The SPCA is on the road to Papua (Wigmore's) Waterfall. There is a Givealittle page for donations, and a SPCA donation box in the departure area of the airport. Another group looking after the animals in the Cook Islands is Te Are Manu Veterinary Clinic.

Bounty Bookshop, Takuvaine Road (next to the Post Office)
Bounty Bookshop stocks guide books, magazines, fiction and non fiction including recipe books if you'd like to recreate local dishes at home. Local papers are also sold - Cook Islands News (published daily, $2), and The Cook Islands Herald (published weekly).

Cooks Corner, Tutakimoa Road
If you're travelling by bus around the island the main bus stop is at Cooks Corner, outside Perfumes of Rarotonga. (See Getting Around below for bus costs and timetable). There is an ANZ ATM machine at Cooks Corner and if you go through the courtyard you will find public toilets.

Cook Islands Library & Museum Society, Makeatinirau Road, Avarua
www.enjoycookislands.com
Open Monday - Saturday 9am - 1pm; late night Tuesday 4-7pm (may not open for the late night in low season)
There are library books for sale and the library also welcomes donations of books. The small museum has a $5 entry fee, note that photos and video recordings are not allowed. Displays include old photos and paintings, a big shell collection, a time-line of significant events in Cook Island history, and an exhibition about RMS Maitai which ran aground in Avarua harbour in 1916 and can still be seen from shore today. There are also musical instruments, the museum could do with another wind instrument - aka a fan, it was hot in there. Royalists might be interested to see a copy of the dress worn by Kate, Duchess of Cambridge when she visited Solomon Islands in 2012, the dress was made by Rarotongan label TAV (it's in a glass case at the library entrance).

Cook Islands National Museum, Victoria Road, Avarua
www.culture.gov.ck
Open Monday - Friday 8.30am - 4pm, entry $5 (no photography or video recording allowed)
The big, open and airy National Museum has a permanent exhibition space on the ground floor and a temporary exhibition space upstairs. There are a few hundred objects in the collection and a lot of them are wooden, including vaka (outrigger canoes) made from the wood of mahogany trees. There are also carved weapons, and carved traditional gods. I was interested to read about some of the early carving tools - teeth from rats and sharks, and dried sting ray tails.

Other items on display include fishing implements, traditional dance costumes, and a large coconut grater along with other food preparation tools. It doesn't take too long to look through the museum and it could be combined with a visit to the small museum at the local library (see above) as they are within walking distance of each other.

Art & Craft / Shopping
Shopping hours are generally 9am - 4pm during the week and until 1pm on Saturday. Resort and village shops may be open in the evening and on Sunday. Bargaining isn't practiced in the Cook Islands.

Pacific Weave, next to Perfumes of Rarotonga and opposite The Islander Hotel (near the airport)
Facebook
We spent time chatting to the lovely women at Pacific Weave and looked at all of the handmade products created locally as well as in other Pacific islands like Tonga, Micronesia and Fiji. I bought an angel made in the Marshall Islands, there is also jewellery, bags, baskets and tapa cloth. Check out their Facebook page to see the beautifully made creations. Open: Monday - Friday 9am - 4.30pm and Saturday 9am - 1pm.

Perfumes of Rarotonga
www.perfumes.co.nz
Perfumes of Rarotonga sell handmade perfumes, a range of body care products, perfumed candles, liqueurs and Noni juice. There are two locations - Cooks Corner in Avarua (also sells fudge) and the factory shop near the airport.

Tivaevae Collectables, opposite Meteorological Station in Nikao
www.tivaevaecollectables.com
Tivaevae Collectables have a range of embroided duvet cover sets, cushion covers and table accessories that are made in Bali and sold from their store in Nikao and online.

Beachcomber (BCA) Gallery/Gift Shop/The Cafe/Exhibition Space, Avarua (look for the large limestone building with the red tile roof, opposite the sign for the Cook Islands Library)
Originally constructed in 1845, the limestone Beachcomber building was rescued and restored in 1992 and now houses a gallery/gift shop that includes work by local artists including Kay George. Retro style The Cafe is in the courtyard of the building and has a record player and selection of vinyl in one corner. An exhibition space is behind the gallery/gift shop, Beachcomber is well worth a visit.

Artist Maria File, gallery next to Ariki Adventures in Muri (open Monday - Friday, 10am - 2pm)
Maria sells her art work at Punanga Nui Market on Saturday mornings, and at her gallery next to Ariki Adventures in Muri. Once you've stayed in Rarotonga it's likely you'll become well acquainted with the island's alarm clocks, and like me, you may want to take home a reminder in the form of one of Maria's vibrant rooster prints. Maria's work is also sold along with other local art in the gift shop at Te Ara Museum in Muri.

CIRCLE - Cook Islands Recycling Creations Living Environment, Big Fish Dive Centre, Aro'a
Facebook
If you've ever wondered what you can do with used plastic wrapping, call in to the Big Fish Dive Centre in Aro'a and see the colourful ipad and cushion covers, coin purses, and handbags. Read more about the creator Sabine and her mission to reuse and reduce Rarotonga's plastic via the Cook Islands News.

Black Pearls
Black pearls are an important means of income for the Cook Islands and a unique souvenir for visitors. Black pearls aren't something we've found out about but see Moana Gems and Bergman & Sons for more information. Apparently there are fake black pearls out there so you can ask for a certificate of authenticity to ensure they're the real deal.

Fashion/Accessories
TAV is a Rarotongan made fashion brand. LuSantials clutches and coin purses are also made in the Cook Islands.

Souvenirs
Souvenirs can be purchased at Punanga Nui Market and from souvenir shops around the island. Ukuleles are a popular choice, some are made by prisoners and sold in the Prison Craft Shop in Arorangi (look for the sign to the Prison opposite Edgewater Resort). Island Craft in Avarua is a good option if you're looking for carvings. Island Craft label their locally made work, beware of imported copies you may find elsewhere.

In The Water
Captain Tama's Lagoon Cruizes, Muri
www.captaintamas.com
On a Captain Tama's cruize you can snorkel out near the reef in Muri Lagoon, eat a BBQ lunch on the beach, and learn how to tie a pareu (sarong). You'll be entertained by No Strings Attached - a string band made up of Captain Tama's crew. The crew will swap the ukuleles for a coconut or two and give a coconut husking and tree climbing demo, and finish with a hilarious coconut show.

The trip takes 4 hours (11am - 3pm) and includes a cruise in a glass bottom boat, 45 minutes of snorkelling (gear supplied if required), BBQ lunch, awesome entertainment and transfers from accommodation if needed - $79 adults. We recommend the trip for a seriously good laugh, and good snorkelling.

Koka Lagoon Cruises
The other day cruise option at Muri is Koka Lagoon Cruises, departs Sunday - Friday at 10am.

Ariki Adventures, Muri
https://arikiadventures.rezdy.com
Ariki Adventures offer water based activities and tours including Stand Up Paddleboard Tours and Turtle Sea Scooter Safaris. I had a chat to a guy from Palmerston North who did a 90 minute sea scooter safari in Muri Lagoon, he enjoyed the sea scooters and the tour so much he said he would do it again, and ..... he saw turtles. Be aware that concerns have been raised about the dangers of snorkelling tours in Avaavaroa Passage, the same issue was raised and responded to in The Cook Islands News in 2018, as mentioned the wellbeing of turtle colonies is a consideration as well.

Snorkelling
There are plenty of snorkelling spots in Rarotonga and most accommodation will likely have snorkelling options nearby. In 2019 and 2018 we stayed at Palm Grove Resort in Vaimaanga and saw lots of colourful fish out snorkelling, some really close to shore. We also saw lots of either sea cucumbers (known as 'vacuum cleaners of the sea'), or sea slugs? Whatever they were, was their presence a good or bad sign? I don't know.

Popular snorkelling spots include Fruits of Rarotonga at Tikioki beach which is located between Muri and Titikaveka. Look for the little lime green Fruits of Rarotonga cafe/shop, opposite is parking, a bus stop, and beach access for snorkelling. If you don't have gear you can hire it from Chantal's Concierge across the road.

You can also snorkel off the beach from Charlie's in Titikaveka (walking distance from Fruits of Rarotonga). Other snorkelling spots are Aro'a Beach and Black Rock in the north west. The snorkelling locations are labelled on the Cook Islands Sun fold out map, Dive Rarotonga have also put together some information about snorkelling. Note the Passages mentioned by Dive Rarotonga and marked on maps that are dangerous. Concerns have been raised about snorkelling tours in Avaavaroa Passage, an issue also discussed in the Cook Islands News in 2018.

Muri Lagoon is a beautiful setting and it's a good spot for paddleboarding and kayaking. We went snorkelling in the lagoon on our first trip to Rarotonga and while there were a few fish around, we thought it was well worth going out on a boat cruise to get closer to the reef.

A few sources have noted lagoon pollution as a problem, most recently Mongabay, and in the past, The Cook Islands News - WATSAN project moving ahead, Can Muri Lagoon be saved?, Lagoon National Disaster. Run off from farms (fertilisers and manure) as well as inadequate waste water and sewerage systems are cited as part of the pollution problem. The popularity of the lagoon is also no doubt contributing to the decline of healthy coral and fish life. It's a challenge for us all as tourists, tourism operators and local populations to preserve our environment but also benefit from the economic advantages that tourism brings, especially to countries like the Cook Islands where tourism is a major income earner.

Koka Lagoon Cruises donate a percentage of their sales to the Rarotonga Lagoon Conservation Trust. As visitors we can dispose of rubbish responsibly, avoid standing on coral, and take short showers to help conserve water and reduce waste water. Most sunscreen is likely toxic to sea life so we've both bought rashies to help with sun protection, the added benefit is less sunscreen going into the water.

Papua Waterfall (also known as Wigmore's Waterfall), Vaima'anga
Look for the SPCA sign and have some money ready - $5 per car, $2 per scooter. It's around a 2km drive to the waterfall which is in a bush setting. Reviewers note the possibility of mosquitoes (not on our visit), and the chance of a water trickle rather than a waterfall (depending on rain fall).

The turn off to Papua Waterfall is near the shell of a hotel that would have been part of the Sheraton group had it been completed. There's a fascinating story behind the hotel (see Google) - a curse, dodgy dealings, and failed attempts by new developers to get the project back on track. In December 2017 The Guardian ran a story about the hotel, and noted a potential New Zealand developer with Chinese backing had plans to finish the project ...... or not it seems in 2020.

Tours / Island Nights / Cultural Villages

On water
KiteSUP Watersports - kayak and snorkel tours.
Adventure Cook Islands (Reef to See) - Padi dive courses and dive trips.
Marlin Queen Fishing Charters.
Akura Charters Rarotonga.
Captain Moko's Fishing Charters.
Ariki Adventures - paddle board and snorkel tours, sea scooter tours.
Raro Reef Sub, 4 trips daily.

On land
Backyard Tours - meet the makers of local products.
Raro Quad Tours - quad bike tours.
Pa's Treks - Cross island trek, and nature walk.
Raro Buggy Tours.
Raro Tours - various group and private tours offered.
Raro Mountain Safari Tours - 4WD tours.

On the town
Raro Pub Crawl
Raro Tours - Going Troppo Night Life Tours (every Friday and Wednesday, or groups by arrangement)

Island nights
Crown Resort & Spa, Island Feast & Cultural Show
Edgewater Resort & Spa, Island Night
Islander Hotel, Night Show & Buffet on Tuesday nights

Cultural villages/Shows
Te Vara Nui Village, Ara Tapu
Highland Paradise Culture Centre, Arorangi

Getting Around
There are two roads that circle Rarotonga, the coastal road Ara Tapu (Sacred Road, 32km) and the inland road Ara Metua (Ancient Road, 29km). We haven't driven on Ara Metua for a long distance but if you want to see farmland and get a bit closer to the mountainous interior of the island you might like to make the detour. The only way to cross the island is on foot, Pa's Treks can guide you.

Speed limit
The maximum speed is 50kph outside of built up areas, 40kph in towns and villages, and 20kph around schools during school time. In Muri and Avarua the speed limit is 30kph.

Motor scooters
They might not have the Harley badge but motorised two wheels are the preferred ride for plenty of locals and visitors. The coastal road is in good condition, although there are potholes, also watch out for wandering birds and dogs. Note: New helmet and licensing laws - if you don't have a motorcycle licence you'll need to get one to hire a scooter - see Please Read information via Adventure Cook Islands.

A few scooter hire options: Polynesian Rental Cars (8 locations), Tipani Rentals (opposite Edgewater Resort), and Island Car & Bike Hire (3 locations). Harley Davidson tours were once offered, but no longer, might be an opportunity there for a Harley rider who could get used to island life. Note: Check your insurance to make sure you're covered to ride a scooter.

Cars
We've hired cars from Go Cook Islands Rentals in Vaimaanga and Avis in Avarua. In 2018 we visited in low season (March) and got a good deal of $35 a day for a minimum three day hire with Avis. If you're keen on a convertible, Polynesian Rental Cars hire Mini Cooper convertibles. Note: Visitors from Australia, NZ, US, Canada, UK and the EU can drive cars using their own licence, there is no need to get a Cook Islands licence.

Bus - Main Bus Stop at Cooks Corner, Tutakimoa Road in Avarua
A clockwise bus departs Cooks Corner on the hour heading toward Tupapa. An anti-clockwise bus departs Cooks Corner at 30 minutes past the hour heading towards Nikao (towards the airport). It takes around 50 minutes for the buses to do a lap of the island, tell the driver where you want to get off when you board. See Busaboutraro for the schedule. Note: On Sunday the clockwise bus departs Cooks Corner from 8am - 12noon and then 2pm - 4pm. There is no Sunday night bus, or Sunday anti-clockwise bus service.

Cost - $5 one way, $8 return or $16 for a day pass (buy tickets from the driver).

There are a few bus stops around the island, if you're in an area without a bus stop you can signal the driver, don't be shy, otherwise they'll whistle on by. There are some popular spots where people get on and off - Fruits of Rarotonga and Black Rock (for snorkelling), Charlie's Bar in Titikaveka, and Muri Village. Note: On one of my bus trips some passengers were using the bus to get to the airport and the driver charged them $2 for each piece of luggage. Fair enough, as he said the bus is for people, not bags, so it's best to organise an airport transfer.

Taxis
You will probably find taxis outside the airport when you arrive, if not someone will be able to organise one for you. Taxis aren't cheap in Rarotonga though and an airport transfer will likely be better value. In Tonga and Samoa taxis drive around looking for business, this isn't the case in Rarotonga, they're the phone and book variety.

Muri
Muri is a popular little hub on Rarotonga and as well as being water activity central and home to Captain Tama's Cruizes, Koka Lagoon Cruises, Ariki Adventures and KiteSUP, it also has a number of accommodation options. There is also a pharmacy, doctors surgery, car and bike hire, and Treasure Chest souvenir store. There are a number of places to eat including Muri Night Market, LBV bakery and cafe, Deli-Licious Cafe, La Casita Cafe and Sails Restaurant. A new development including Mai'i Central is home to Vili's Burgers, Janceys Bakery & Deli, a liquor store, grocery store and coffee cart.

Te Ara - The Cook Islands Museum of Cultural Enterprise is also in Muri, entry to the museum is $15. Te Ara has a cafe, and a gift shop selling only locally made products. You can refill water bottles at the water filter station and charge devices free of charge. We enjoyed our lunch in the cafe and the gift shop is worth a visit, the museum will be one of our first stops when we return. Look for the big building painted with frangipani flowers. Open 7 days 8am - 4pm.

Maire Nui Gardens
Maire Nui Gardens on Facebook, Titikaveka
There is a $5 charge to visit Maire Nui Gardens and you'll find a red box for payment at the garden entrance. It's not a huge garden but it's a lovely, peaceful spot and there are colourful and unusual plants to see as well as some pretty butterflies. If you're travelling by bus and find the garden cafe closed (does it even exist?), it's a short walk to Charlie's Cafe & Bar, open from 11am.

Sport & Recreation
Rarotonga Golf Club, visitors welcome
Coco Putt 18 hole mini golf
Paddle board and boat hire - Captain Tama's, Muri
Kite-surfing equipment, paddle board, kayak, wetsuit and snorkel gear hire - KiteSUP, Muri
Bike hire - Ride Rarotonga and Adventure Cook Islands. Electric bikes - Tik e-bikes.
Rarotonga Sailing Club, Muri
Rarotonga Hash House Harriers

Food & Dining

For those self catering: CITC Supermarket is located half way between the airport and Avarua, Foodland is in downtown Avarua on the main road, Prime Foods is on St Joseph Road in Avarua, KAPS is in Matavera, and Wigmore's Supermarket (open on Sunday) is in Vaimaanga.

Visit the Punanga Nui Market on Saturday, and road side stalls for good value produce. You can also take food from home, as long as it's not fresh (fruit and vegetables prohibited), declare it at Customs on arrival.

Food & drink prices: To get an idea of supermarket food and drink prices visit Prime Foods on Facebook, they usually post their weekly specials.

Muri Night Market & Three Memorable Meals
See thecuriouskiwi/blog posts - Muri Night Market and Three Memorable Meals in Rarotonga (Sails Restaurant in Muri; Vaima Polynesian Bar & Restaurant in Vaimaanga & Flambe Restaurant at Crown Beach Resort in Arorangi).

Anchorage Restaurant at Sunset Resort in Arorangi
www.thesunsetresort.com
We spent 5 nights at Sunset Resort in December 2019 and the food was so good at Anchorage Restaurant that we ate most of our meals onsite. We highly recommend the Sunday night $42 buffet and show with Sunshine Mata George. From 12pm - 3pm daily you can have a burger and beer combo for $17 (Kiwi burger and kumara fries below). The Thai style salad was fresh, cheap and delicious, and the maniota/cassava fries are well worth trying.

Trader Jacks, by the sea and opposite the intersection of Ara Tapu Road and Takuvaine Road, Avarua
traderjackscookislands.com
I spent a few nights in Avarua in 2018 and Trader Jacks was a convenient spot for dinner and drinks. Trader Jacks is so close to the water that you could have a dip before dinner if you wanted to. The menu is online and has a selection of pizzas, burgers, fish 'n' chips and other seafood and meat dishes.

You can dine in the casual bar or upstairs in the restaurant. I sat in the bar by the sea with fish 'n' chips ($16.50) and watched families cooling off in the water. The local Cook Islands lager is on tap ($5 a glass), and as a nod to the cyclones that have battered Trader Jacks over the years there's also a Trader Jacks Tropical Cyclone American Pale Ale. (Trader Jacks is open Monday - Saturday from 11am, closed on Sunday).

Bamboo Jacks, Ara Tapu Road, Avarua (east of Avarua, near Paradise Inn)
www.bamboojacks.net
My helpful host Malcolm at Central Motel told me that Bamboo Jacks was open for dinner on Sunday nights, so Bamboo Jacks it was. Bamboo Jacks opened in 2011 and is owned by Jack Cooper aka Trader Jack. You can eat in and there's a lovely courtyard as well as indoor seating, or takeaway, the menu is on the website. There are a number of Asian dishes to choose from, I went with an old favourite - Pad Thai with chicken, add a bottle of Steinlager and it came to $25. I enjoyed my meal which was made even better because of the friendly staff. (Bamboo Jacks is closed on Saturday, open from 5.30pm Sunday - Friday nights for dinner, and lunch on Friday from 11.30am - 2.30pm).

Spaghetti House Pizzeria & Grill, Arorangi
We recommend booking a table at Spaghetti House as it's part of the large Edgewater Resort. We returned for dinner in 2018 and recommend it as a family friendly, good value dining option. Pasta dishes are priced from $15.50, pizza from $18, and dessert from $8.50. There are other main meal choices like pork cutlets, fish, and chicken as well as gluten free options including pizza. (Spaghetti House is located outside Edgewater Resort on the main road, open 7 nights from 5pm).

Vili's Burger Joint, Mai'i Central, near Te Manava Villas in Muri
Vili's Burger Joint on Facebook
Vili's has moved from a roadside stall to a new commercial development in Muri and sits alongside Mai'i Restaurant and Bar. Vili's pumps out top shelf burgers priced from $7.50, add a drink from Mai'i Bar next door and you have the start of a good night out (if you're young), or if you're older like us, Vili's is a good night out. There is seating under a covered verandah and live music may be playing in the evenings. If a good burger is your thing, visit early on in your stay as you'll likely want to return. Open 7 days from 11.30am - 9pm.

The New Place Cafe, opposite Punanga Nui Market and next to Polynesian Rentals, Avarua
Facebook
The New Place Cafe is decked out in vivid blue and it's opposite the Punanga Nui Market so it's a convenient place to sit and relax after visiting the market on Saturday morning. I called in for a breakfast of coconut pancakes and yoghurt ($14.50). Lunch is served from 11.30am and the menu includes curries, sliders, paninis and at least 17 other dishes. There's a lot of choice at The New Place and you'll find the menu posted on a board outside or on Facebook. Open Monday - Saturday from 7.30am and open some evenings for dinner, check Facebook to confirm.

The Cafe, inside the Beachcomber Building (BCA Gallery) at the intersection of Ara Tapu and Makeatinirau Roads, Avarua
I spent a hot morning walking to both of the museums in Avarua and The Cafe is well placed to take a break for a cold drink and a snack. The Cafe is in the open air courtyard of the Beachcomber Building and has a retro / record theme with a record player (choose a tune) in one corner as well as books and magazines to read. I sat cooling off with a glass of apple juice and a paw paw muffin while listening to waves crashing in the distance. Another visit for morning tea found The Cafe busy with locals taking five for coffee. Open Monday - Friday 9am - 3pm, Saturday 9am - 1pm.

Charlie's Cafe, Bar & Beach Hire, Titikaveka
Charlie's on Facebook
Charlie's Cafe & Beach Hire is a casual spot where you can hire the gear to snorkel, kayak or paddle-board off the beach. Fish is served a few ways and I chose the fish sandwich ($14). The sandwich was a whopper, and big enough to share, the fish was tough though so it probably spent too much time in the pan. A cold drinking coconut on a hot day is a good combination though, and Charlie's also shakes up cocktails to serve by the glass and jug. Open Monday - Saturday from 11am.

Progressive Dinners
Cook Islands Tours take visitors to local homes to enjoy home cooked food and learn about how local people live - see Rarotonga Progressive Dinner on Facebook and Progressive Dinner via their website.

Drinks / Happy Hours

Matutu Brewery, Tikioki (look for the sign on the side of the road with tour times)
Matutu Brewing Company brew Mai (lager) and Kiva (pale ale). Every week day at 12noon and 1pm you can take a brewery tour ($15pp). It's not a tour as such as the rustic brewery is small, but the guys behind it are passionate about what they do. We enjoyed learning about the beers, the brewery (the kit came from Tuatara Brewery in Wellington), and the origins of the beer names and labels. We also got to sample the Mai and Kiva along with their coconut stout, and liked their craft beer bottle collection. If you develop a taste for Matutu beer you'll find it at a lot of bars and restaurants in Rarotonga.

Rarotonga Brewery, opposite Oasis Energy, Nikao
https://rarotongabrewery.com
Rarotonga Brewery has a really nice little tasting room run by friendly staff, a glass of the onsite brewed Cook Islands lager is $4. The brewery is a partnership between a local couple and the owners of Hallertau Brewery in Auckland so you'll find Hallertau brews on tap as well. Free brewery tours are offered, and merchandise including refillable flagons are sold. Call in for a Cook Islands lager Monday - Saturday between 10am - 6pm.

Happy Hour
Hula Bar at The Islander Hotel (in Nikao and opposite the airport) probably has the best happy hour on the island - $3.50 beer, $4 spirits and $5 wines all day from 11am. When we've called in to the seaside bar for a beer it hasn't been busy, but I imagine it fills up in the evenings. Also in Nikao is Vaiana's Bar & Bistro on the beach with happy hour 4pm-7pm (check Facebook for updates).

As you're travelling around Rarotonga keep an eye out for happy hour signs, we always have at least one cocktail on the sand at Oceans Bar at Crown Beach Resort in Arorangi - $8 happy hour cocktails are shaken up from 4pm - 6pm.

Where We Stayed
Sunset Resort, Arorangi (2019)
www.thesunsetresort.com
It took us a while to follow our own travel tip and stay at Sunset Resort in Arorangi but we've found our new favourite place to stay in Rarotonga. Sunset is an all round excellent 3.5 star accommodation option - it has beautiful, well kept gardens and grounds; two swimming pools; a long sandy beach with hammocks strung between trees; well equipped and modern rooms; Anchorage Restaurant serving really good food (see Food & Dining above), and stylish little Drumbeat Bar for drinks in the afternoon.

It's not suitable for all families, but those over 12 years are welcome. The only downside for us was the snorkelling, we went out a few times and don't think it's as good as snorkelling around Fruits of Rarotonga and Vaimaanga, however a scooter or car can get you to other snorkelling spots.

Palm Grove Resort, Vaimaanga (2018 & 2019)
www.palmgrove.net
Palm Grove has 22 self-contained bungalows set over five acres, choose either a garden setting or beach front. We stayed in a well equipped Garden Studio a few steps from the pool and a short walk across the road to the beach. We saw plenty of colourful fish out snorkelling, there were a lot of sea slugs though.

There's a long list of handy facilities at Palm Grove including a guest BBQ, laundry, book swap, onsite electric bike and motorbike rental and complimentary snorkel gear and kayaks. It's also a short walk to Wigmore's Supermarket, a popular place for people to gather on Sunday afternoons for big $3 ice creams.

Yellow Hibiscus restaurant serves a complimentary breakfast each morning, has an excellent happy hour for guests on Friday night, and a Sunday BBQ with live entertainment. We don't think Palm Grove was as well maintained in 2019, however we still enjoyed our stay and highly rate the snorkelling.

Central Motel, Takuvaine Road, Avarua (2018)
There's nothing fancy about Central Motel in Avarua but if budget and location to town are top priorities then it's a good choice. Trader Jacks Bar & Restaurant is at the end of the street, Punanga Nui Market and the small town centre are a short walk away.

While the rooms may be dated, they're a decent size and mine was exceptionally clean. The room had a new air con unit and a chair that looked brand new despite it probably being around since the 1970's! Central Motel's owner Malcolm is a friendly and helpful host and if I was looking for budget accommodation in Avarua again I would happily return.

Edgewater Resort & Spa, Arorangi (2012)
www.edgewater.co.ck
Edgewater is the largest resort on Rarotonga, it's family friendly and has a Kids Club. The resort was offering a deal on garden rooms and we booked for that reason. Trip Advisor reviews for garden rooms were varied so our expectations weren't high. However we were happy with our room on the second floor with its sliding door out to a small balcony.

There were tea and coffee making facilities, flat screen TV, bar fridge, an air conditioning unit (a bit noisy but didn't bother us too much), and an in room safe (you might think it doesn't work, it probably does, persevere with the instructions). The bathroom was a decent size, nicely tiled and in good condition. The room was clean and serviced daily, the decor and some fittings could be upgraded but we had no complaints. Tropical buffet breakfast was included and was more than adequate - fresh fruit, gluten free options, muffins, cereals, tea, coffee, toast, and juice.

Activities at Edgewater Resort & Spa
There's a swimming pool, tennis courts and games room, plus a schedule of daily activities, most are free. Activities can include fish feeding, water volleyball, ukulele and drumming lessons, and sarong making and tying. On Sunday there's a bus service to church. The onsite shop Treasure Chest sells competitively priced souvenirs.

We went to a drumming session and tapped out a few tunes, but it's You Tube who can show you how it's really done. We also attended an informal history and cultural session led by Tiki Daniel, and highly recommend it. One of the more curious things he mentioned was remote Palmerston Island, the only Cook Island where English is the native language. Englishman William Marsters arrived on the uninhabited island in 1862 with at least one Polynesian wife. He went on to father 17 or 23 children (depending on the source) and died in 1899 at age 78 with 54 grand children. The Masters (changed from Marsters probably due to pronunciation) family were granted ownership of the island in 1954.

Accommodation
The following is a random list of accommodation options, if you're booking your trip independently and looking for holiday homes see Rentraro.com and Island Hopper Vacations.

Self contained/self catering
Aroko Bungalows, Muri
Coral Sands, Arorangi
Lagoon Breeze Villas, Aroa
Manea Beach Villas, Muri
Muri Beach Resort
Muri Hillside Guest Houses
Muri Retreat
The Cooks Oasis Holiday Villas, Arorangi

Backpacker / Budget
Aremango Guesthouse, Muri
Backpackers International, Aroa
Rarotonga Backpackers, Arorangi

Resorts/Luxury Villa
Crown Beach Resort & Spa, Arorangi
Edgewater Resort & Spa, Arorangi
Little Polynesian, Titikaveka
Nautilus Resort, Muri
Pacific Resort, Muri
Rumours Luxury Villas & Spa, Muri
Sea Change Villas, Titikaveka
Sunset Resort, Arorangi
Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa, Muri
The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa, Aroa

Resorts with Kids Clubs

Edgewater Resort & Spa
Pacific Resort
Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa

What To Pack
Highly recommend taking your own snorkelling gear and reef shoes, also a rashie for sun protection and to lessen the need for sunscreen in the water.
Your driver's licence if you want to hire a vehicle
Insect repellent
EFTPOS card (there are a number of ATMs on the island)
Casual clothes and flat shoes. If you intend to go to church pack something smart that covers your shoulders.
Sunscreen, sun hat and sun glasses
Small umbrella - double use as a sunshade and rain shelter
Some people recommend ear plugs to silence the roosters, you'll probably sleep through the prolific crowing .... eventually.
There's no street lighting so take a small torch, or use your phone.
A smile, and the intention to relax into island time...... have a tumeke adventure.

Further Information
Websites
www.cookislands.travel (official tourism website for the Cook Islands)

Books
Akono'Anga Maori - Cook Islands Culture, various contributors, edited by Ron Crocombe & Marjorie Tua'inekore Crocombe.

The Art of Tivaevae: Traditional Cook Islands Quilting by Lynnsay Rongokea.

Tivaivai: The Social Fabric of the Cook Islands by Susanne Kuchler & Andrea Eimke.

Patterns of the Past: Tattoo Revival in the Cook Islands (Facebook) by Therese Mangos & John Utanga.

Atiu: An Island Community by various authors including Ngatupuna Kautai.

Island Boy: An Autobiography by Sir Thomas Davis.

An Island to Oneself by Tom Neale.

Me'a Kai - The Food and Flavours of the South Pacific by Robert Oliver with Dr Tracy Berno and Shiri Ram. A large (493 page), colourful book containing information on Pacific cuisine and recipes from various Pacific regions including the Cook Islands.

To find more books about the Cook Islands visit Bounty Bookshop on Takuvaine Road in Avarau, and the Cook Islands Museum and Library Society on Makeatinirau Road in Avarua. Visitor membership to the library is $30 for 6 months, $10 is refunded when borrowed books are returned.

Magazines
Look out for a free copy of Escape magazine (published twice a year), and the free Cook Islands Sun tourist newspaper.

Personal Note
We went to Rarotonga for the third time in December 2019 and split our 10 nights between Palm Grove in Vaimaanga and Sunset Resort in Arorangi (our new favourite place to stay). December is rainy season, although I think there is always an element of luck with the weather at any time of year, but for two out of the ten days the rain was almost continuous making reading top of our list for things to do. Given it was low season we didn't pre-book a rental car but walked down to Go Cook Islands Rentals in Vaimaanga and picked up a little car for $62 a day. We didn't shop around to see if we could get a cheaper hire rate, it was purely convenience, a cheaper deal may be found elsewhere.

Some businesses took the opportunity to shut down for a Christmas holiday for a couple of weeks as is popular in New Zealand, The Mooring Fish Cafe was closed as was Te Ara - The Cook Islands Museum of Cultural Enterprise. On Boxing Day Deli-Licious in Muri was the only cafe we found open, the Hula Bar at the Islander Hotel was also open, but you needed to buy food with alcohol (bags of chippies all round). (Obviously Christmas closures are subject to change from year to year but Rarotonga observes NZ public holidays).

Rarotonga is still a stress free and relaxing place to holiday and we were well and truly in holiday mode at top notch Sunset Resort. Vili's burgers in Muri was a great new find for us and we also appreciated having a car to get out and about around the island (a good option in the rainy season).

While Rarotonga is the subject of this guide there are other Cook Islands to visit - Aitutaki, Atiu, and outer islands.

Comments to date: 37. Page 2 of 2.

Olivia Anderson
we have just come back from Rarotonga and had the best holiday in ages. Can recommend self catering as it's great with kids as food can be expensive. Stayed in a beaut place coral Sands which had very good trip advisor comments Admin: Thanks for the recommendation Olivia, I've added Coral Sands to the self contained accommodation section. It's a bonus in Rarotonga that there are quite a few self contained options for those who want to self cater, it's good to add another to the list.
Ron
For anyone's possible interest, we will be in Rarotonga during October 2013 at the Sunset Resort for 12 nights. It will be our third visit, the first being in 1997 at the newly reopened Rarotongan Beach Resort. We are so looking forward to our return to paradise, with a repeat day tour over to Aitutaki.
Ron
I have learned that arriving passengers can enter with 2 liters of wine each, and that CITC Duty Free in the Arrival Terminal sells Church Road (Hawkes Bay) for NZ$ 20 for 750 ml. Sounds like a plan. Admin: Cheers Ron - a good plan indeed.
Ron
Wine is my drink of choice and I would be interested in your recommendation as to where wines may be purchased for a good price. My first guess would be at CIC Supermarket or at Foodland, if wines are sold there. Other places? Admin: Hi, We didn't shop for wine, but The Bond Liquor Store advertises over 600 wines ... http://thehusk.co.ck/other-services/66-the-bond-liquor-store.html
debbie
is there somewhere in raro where you can hire an outrigger canoe ride?? Admin: Hi, I would recommend you contact Cook Islands Tourism by email, they should be able to help, follow the Contact link here : http://www.cookislands.travel/NZ
Rachael
You're welcome Clare, thanks for letting us know you found the info helpful. Cheers to raising a glass of something cold as the sun sets. Happy holidays in Raro, if you have any recommendations on your return feel free to share them here.
Clare
In a few days, we are returning to Raro for the first time since 1988! I have just read through your site and it has been very helpful, thanks! We've opted for a beach studio on Aorangi. Our main requirements were sunsets and a fridge.

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