Destination - Kingdom of Tonga

Updated May 2020
Malo e lei lei, below is a guide to the main Tongan island - Tongatapu and three small islands nearby. A list of accommodation options is also included for 'Eua, Ha'apai and Vava'u. The guide has been put together after visiting Tonga four times, most recently in 2019.

The Kingdom of Tonga is made up of over 170 islands, many are uninhabited. The country is divided into five island groups - Tongatapu, 'Eua, Ha'apai, Vava'u, and the Niuas. Tongatapu is the most populated island and is home to Nuku'alofa (Abode of Love), the Kingdom's capital.

Tonga is a naturally beautiful country with white sand beaches, clear waters, and swaying coconut palms. Wildlife watchers can see the flying foxes or fruit bats, and go whale watching and swimming between July and October when whales mate and calve in the warm waters.

Currency - Pa'anga (TOP)

All prices quoted are in Tongan currency. NZ$1 buys approximately TOP$1.40 as at May 2020. The exchange rate makes Tonga a great value destination.

If you are an ANZ customer there is no charge to use the ANZ ATMs. In the town centre on Taufa'ahau Road you will find ATMs next to Cafe Escape, and at the waterfront end of the Tonga Post building. There is a limit of 900 pa'anga per withdrawal.

Climate

Travel or Health Warnings

Language

Tongan is the official language but English is widely spoken. Learn some Tongan phrases.

The majority of Tonga’s population lives in Nuku’alofa and its surrounding villages. Outside the little capital you'll see small villages with colourful cottages on large sections full of tropical flowers, chooks, piglets and children. You’ll pass makeshift kiosks set up by enterprising locals selling coconuts, watermelon and vegetables. Churches and small village stores are plentiful, and off the main roads you'll see rows of root crops and grazing farm animals.

Talamahu Market, Salote Road (Monday-Saturday, early morning - 4.30pm)
Coconuts, pineapples and taro spill around groups of women and children outside the Talamahu Market. Inside the market, fruit and vegetables are laid out in orderly piles on wooden tables. You will also find stalls selling handcrafted handbags, carvings, woven trays and mats, and jewellery. Upstairs is clothing and more jewellery. Please note: Bargaining is not practiced in Tonga. I was offered a discount at the market in 2016 when I bought a handbag ($30) but the prices are so reasonable I thought it was only fair to pay full price.

If you are particularly interested in handcrafted items I also highly recommend LangaFonua Handicrafts Centre next to Friends Cafe on Taufa'ahau Road. Open Monday - Friday 9am - 5pm, Saturday 9am - 1pm. LangaFonua Handicrafts Centre was established in 1953 by the late Queen Salote and was set up to preserve and promote traditional Tongan handicraft skills.

Tongan Feasts on Tongatapu
Oholei Beach and Hina Cave Feast and Show, Wednesday and Friday nights, and Sunday lunch.

Liku'alofa Beach Resort*, Cultural Night & Buffet Dinner on Wednesday and Friday nights, $40.

Note: Book a feast via Friends Cafe on Taufa'ahau Road or at Tonga Visitors Bureau on Vuna Road.

*In 2016 we went to a Friday night feast at Liku'alofa Beach Resort in Kanokupolu, and what a feast it was. Our plates were piled high with ota ika (raw fish in coconut milk), fish curry, pork straight from the spit, battered egg plant, purple taro and salad. We didn't try everything, and could just manage a piece of pineapple cake for dessert. You are encouraged to EAT at Liku'alofa so arrive hungry.

The owner and staff were really welcoming and it felt like we were dining with family. There were also some really lovely touches like fresh flowers on the tables and in the toilets. The feast is the first part of the evening, next comes the show that includes fire dancing and dancers representing a few Pacific Islands. After the show the band continues to play and everyone is encouraged onto the dance floor, it's a really good night out.

Day trips from Tongatapu

Pangaimotu Island Resort
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Pangaimotu is especially popular on Sundays when almost everything is closed on Tongatapu. Boats leave Faua jetty and it's a quick 10 minute trip across the harbour. Transport and lunch is $60 for adults (you are asked not to take your own food and drink to the island). There's good snorkelling around the ship wreck, and the big sandy, rustic bar and restaurant are laid back and relaxed.

You can leave your mark on the graffitied beams in the bar or claim a patch of sand on the beach. As far as accommodation goes, the fales look run down so I'd recommend heading over for a day trip and asking to see the accommodation before deciding if you wanted to stay there. For a day trip though it's well worth it (our last trip to Pangaimotu was in 2016).

'Atata Island - Royal Sunset Island Resort
www.royalsunset.to and Facebook
'Atata Island is 10km from Nuku'alofa and a 30 minute boat ride across the harbour. It's a small island with a fishing village at one end and Royal Sunset Island Resort at the other. We stayed at Royal Sunset in 2004, and returned on a day trip in 2016. Day trip cost is $78 including boat trip, welcome drink, lunch and 30 minutes of snorkelling around the reef (from a boat).The fales look to have been rebuilt from when we stayed, although the interior of some of them appeared to be the same. Check out Trip Advisor for up-to-date reviews.

There is now a walk way through the village and it was good to see all the solar panels supplying the villagers with power. Our day trip was on a Saturday, week day guests may be able to visit the school. There is at least one little shop in the village for those staying a few days. Spot the flying foxes and the roaming pigs as you walk around the island.

The impressive main fale at Royal Sunset remains with its bar and dining area, the swimming pool was out of action on our latest visit. We highly recommend Royal Sunset for a day trip, the staff couldn't have been friendlier, and the 30 minutes of snorkelling off the boat is an excellent bonus, we saw big clams and plenty of fish.

If you want lunch close by we can recommend two options - Sunset Bar & Restaurant at Liku'alofa Beach Resort (currently open 7 days for visitors), and Hideaway Cafe at Holty's Hideaway, a short walk down the beach road from the sand (look for an Open sign at the gate). Holty's is run by two friendly Australians and along with a nice little cafe they have self contained accommodation options out the back, a salt water swimming pool, and BBQ area. It was a neat find and my enthusiasm for the place meant I was offered a tour so I could take photos. Holty's is well maintained and if you like small, owner operated accommodation near the beach, definitely check it out.

Tongatapu Island Tour

Royal Tombs (Mala'ekula), corner Taufa'ahau and Mateialona Streets, Nuku'alofa
Tongan royalty have been buried in the tombs since 1893. The tombs are fenced and are in the middle of a field so you can only see them from a distance.

Mapu 'a Vaea blow holes (near Houma Village)
The blow holes are located near Houma, around 14 kilometres from down town Nuku'alofa. We got lost twice looking for the blow holes in 2016, they're not hard to find though, turn toward the coast at Houma Ink Tattoo. As waves break, sea water is pushed up through holes in coral limestone terraces causing jets of water to surge toward the sky. The rougher the water, the better the show.

The blow holes stretch a few kilometres around the coast, but Houma is a good viewing spot. We've found the blow holes deserted on other visits, but this time there were a few people there as well as Tongan woman selling jewellery, carvings and sarongs.

Captain Cook’s Landing Site (Holonga Village)
A stone with a plaque marks the site of a banyan tree where Captain Cook is said to have rested when he came ashore in 1777 to visit the Sacred King of Tonga. According to the Captain Cook Society, Cook visited Tonga three times in the 1770's. On the first two visits he was well received and due to the courtesy he was shown he is said to have named Tonga the 'Friendly Islands'.

On his third visit Captain Cook was invited to the island of Lifuka by great chief Finau. Unbeknown to Cook, the chief had hatched a plan to kill him and his men and loot their ship. Due to infighting among chiefs the attack never happened and Captain Cook remained oblivious to the plan, enjoying entertainment that 'would have met with universal applause on a European Theatre'. If Captain Cook had been aware of the plot to kill him, no doubt he would have changed his description of the Friendly Islands. (If you're a birder look out for what I think are Pacific reef herons in the water).

'Anahulu Cave at Haveluliku, on the eastern side of Tongatapu
It costs $10-$15 to walk down inside 'Anahulu Cave. You see what your pa'anga pays for here as when you enter the cave a generator starts up and provides lighting. It's an impressive looking cave dripping with stalagmites and stalactites and it only takes a couple of minutes to walk down to the bottom (malo to whoever built the stairs). It can be a bit slippery so sturdy shoes are good, a torch would also be handy to get a closer look at the cave interior, and a towel if you want to swim in the clear fresh water pool at the bottom.

You may see and will probably hear flying foxes. 'Anahulu Cave is open 10am - 5.30pm, I expect it would be closed on Sunday. There are toilets onsite although we didn't use them. (PS. We could see a grave below the cave on the beach so thought it was respectful not to go down, if you're looking for beach access ask the friendly cash collector to point you in the right direction).
 
Tsunami Rock (Maka Sio'ata), Kala'au Village
Either Maui had a strong right arm or the scientists are correct and the big tsunami rock was thrown inland by an underwater volcano-triggered tsunami. There is no doubt the rock came from the sea as shells are clearly visible. Tsunami Rock is one of 7 similar rocks located 100-400 metres from the coast. Read what the scientists have to say. It's a bumpy but short track to get to Tsunami Rock and we thought it was well worth the detour.

The flying foxes are the property of the king and are protected. You may have to stop and really look for them in the trees at Kolovai Village, they may not be that obvious but once you see one it's likely you'll see plenty. We found the most in a tree near the cemetery, opposite the church with the dome shaped roof. Kolovai Village isn't the only place you will see flying foxes though, just watch the sky, it could well be that what you think is a bird is actually a flying fox overhead.

Talafo’ou - 'Village of the Snorkelling Pigs'
When we stayed on 'Atata Island in 2004 one of the most surprising sights were pigs digging their snouts in the sand looking for something to eat. On a day tour of Tongatapu we were taken to Talafo'ou - described as 'Village of the Snorkelling Pigs'. We returned to Talafo'ou Village in 2016 and the pigs are still leaving their little pig trotter footsteps in the sand and digging up the beach looking for salty treats.

Talafo'ou Village was one of the best kept villages we drove through and there were a couple of small playgrounds, although I think big pigs and little piglets may trump a swing and a slide any day, at least for visitors. (Low tide is the best time to see the pigs at the beach).

Eating Out

Billfish Bar & Restaurant, Vuna Road, wharf end (25 minutes or so walk from town centre, or get a taxi)
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No stay in Tonga is complete for us without a beer and a burger at Billfish. Billfish is a casual and popular spot for locals and visitors to enjoy drinks, dinner and sports matches on screen. Open Monday - Saturday. (Dined 2019)

Down at the wharf you will find Ngutulei Bar & Restaurant, we haven't dined here but it's handy for those looking to fill in time before or after catching ferries or boats to the outer islands.

Self Catering

Roadside Stalls
Lots of locals have roadside produce stalls outside their homes on Tongatapu.

Roadside Shops
Each village will have at least one roadside shop that sells packaged goods, UHT milk, water, etc.

Supermarkets
Packaged food and personal products are mostly imported so some items can be expensive. If we need groceries we go to Molisi Supermarket opposite Talamahu Market. On our last visit the shelves weren't overflowing with goods, perhaps they were waiting for stock deliveries. However if there is something particular you want I'd suggest bringing it with you from home. (You will find a few other supermarket type shops as you drive around town, quite a few will be owned and staffed by Chinese people who have settled in Tonga).

Wheels

Car Hire
In 2019 and 2016 we hired a two door Toyota Vitz from the lovely staff at Sunshine Rentals on the corner of 'Unga and Laifone Roads (a short walk down Taufa'ahau Road, then turn left at the big Sunshine Rental sign). Expect to pay from $45 per day** (we paid $70 per day in 2019), plus $100 deposit (refunded when the car is returned). With rates so reasonable we hired the car for five days so we could drive to different places for dinner in the evening and get around the island easily. There are a number of petrol stations on Tongatapu so you shouldn't have a problem finding somewhere to fill up, petrol was $2.70 a litre in 2019.

** Rates will vary depending on what cars are available and what size vehicle you need. We were quoted $100 a day at another car hire company for a similar vehicle so it pays to compare prices.

Other car hire companies: Avis and Star Rental Car.

Driver licence
The cost of a Tongan driver licence is $40 and it is valid for three months (it's a nice little souvenir). You get the licence at the Ministry of Infrastructure & Tourism on Hala Alaivahamama'o Bypass Road (opposite the Central Fire Station). Note that the office is closed for lunch, the hours are Monday - Friday from 8.30am - 12.30pm and 1.30pm - 4pm. You're supposed to get your licence before you get your car, but the Ministry office isn't that close to town so we got the hire car first, it's not too far to cycle if you have a bike. (Don't forget to take your driver licence).

Taxis & Buses
A taxi from Fua'amotu International Airport to town is $40. Before you get in a taxi ask the driver what the cost to your destination will be (taxis don't have meters). There is a taxi stand near the Talamahu Market.

We've never used the buses but the main bus station in town is opposite the Tonga Visitor Bureau on Vuna Road. On Sunday there are no buses, it's possible that your accommodation provider may be able to arrange a taxi.

A note on the condition of some cars and roads in Tonga - There are some cars on the road that would be in a wreckers yard if they were in New Zealand, fortunately for all concerned the speed limit is 40km/h - 50km/h in town and in villages, and slightly faster on the open road. The busier roads tend to be in good condition however get off the well driven track and there are plenty of pot holes, take care and drive slowly. I should have clicked a lot earlier that the reason for a lot of broken windscreens is probably falling coconuts, I suspect it's not easy or cheap to get a replacement.

Getting to the outer islands - 'Eua, Ha'apai, Vava'u and The Nuias
Ferries
The Japanese government funded the flash new domestic passenger terminal and extension to Faua Wharf. If you want up-to-date ferry timetable information I suggest contacting Tonga Tourism on Vuna Road.

We met a couple who went to 'Eua by ferry for the day. They suggest that day visitors take food and drink, and it sounds like if you want to go anywhere you will need to ask someone for a lift, and then a lift back to the ferry. They were told the ferry would depart at 4pm, they arrived at the boat at 3pm and were sailing away at 3.30pm, so be aware that timetables are flexible.

The Family Without Borders wrote about and photographed their 24 hour ferry trip to Vava'u. They are an adventurous family who really know how to 'get away from it all' - 3 days alone on an uninhabited island (in the Vava'u group).

Fly
REAL Tonga operate domestic flights from Tongatapu to 'Eua (less than 15 minutes), Ha'apai and Vava'u. (The domestic airport is alongside the international airport). From what I've read online I would suggest not having an international flight departing on the same day you return from an outer island, just incase the domestic flight is delayed or cancelled. Note: As at May 2020 Real Tonga is in financial difficulty and there is the possibility of another airline being established.

Fiji Airways fly direct from Nadi and Suva to Nuku'alofa.

Accommodation/Where We Stayed in Nuku'alofa

Tongatapu Accommodation
Budget - shared facilities
Backpackers Townhouse

Dayspring Lodge

Noa Guest House

Simon's Place

The Village Backpackers

Toni's Guest House


Self Contained/Apartments
Blue Banana Seaside Bungalows

Captain Cook Apartments

Villa Apartments

Teukava Beach Oasis (looks to be somewhere between budget and self contained accommodation)

The Friendly Islander (Papiloa's Place)


Hotels
City Hotel

Emerald Hotel

House of Tonga

Jezami Hotel

Little Italy Hotel & Restaurant *

Tanoa International Dateline Hotel *

Tungi Colonade Hotel


Resorts/Lodges
Fafa Island Resort

Ha'atafu Beach Resort

Heilala Holiday Lodge

Liku'alofa Beach Resort

Malau Lodge

'Oholei Beach Resort & Hina Cave

RobyAnnes Lodge

Royal Sunset Island Resort

The Seaview Lodge

Tonga Holiday Villa

Vakaloa Beach Resort

Villa Ishadora

Waterfront Cafe & Lodge

Winnie's B&B


Where We Stayed in Nuku'alofa
Tanoa International Dateline Hotel, Vuna Road (2019)
www.tanoadateline.com
Tanoa International Dateline is a 4.5 star hotel and has been recently refurbished. With the closure of Scenic Hotel near the airport, Tanoa International is the biggest hotel on Tongatapu. The hotel's location on the Vuna Road waterfront is a short walk into town and a longer walk down to Billfish Bar & Restaurant and the wharf to catch ferries to the outer islands.

More importantly our room was a good size, had screens on the windows and a quiet and effective air conditioning unit. There was a fridge, tea and coffee making facilities, desk, chair, iron, ironing board, safe and a decent bathroom. The bed was really comfy and had a Venetian scene behind it, who needs a pool. The room rate included cooked and continental breakfast, and wi-fi. We thought Little Italy provided really good value for money. (See Eating Out above for more about Little Italy's onsite restaurant and The Seaview Lodge Restaurant, a short walk from Little Italy).

Trivia

• From 1984 to 1998 it was possible to purchase Tongan passports and citizenship for US$20,000. Imelda Marcos is said to have purchased a passport along with citizens from China, Taiwan and Hong Kong. The new passport holders may have thought they could get easy access to New Zealand, Australia and the United States however these countries chose not accept the fee paying passport holders across their borders. Selling citizenship was a scheme masterminded by a previous Tongan King. The scheme proved successful in generating a considerable amount of money, however the King was persuaded by an American to invest the majority of funds in dubious US companies. The money disappeared but many “new” citizens now call Tonga home. (Source: old Lonely Planet publication)
  
  

What to pack

• Mosquito repellent
  
• Reef shoes and snorkel equipment
• Sunscreen and sun hat
• Small umbrella for impromptu showers and to use as a sun shade
• Drivers licence
• Chippies, peanuts etc can be expensive so you might want to take some from home
• Small reusable water bottle
• Resealable plastic bags for camera/food storage
• Maybe some cutlery to slice up fruit and veges from market stalls (depending on what your accommodation option supplies)
• A torch in-case of lack of exterior lighting at night
• It's against Tongan law to appear in public without a shirt. I think it's respectful to a country's culture and its people to follow their lead in terms of dress and behaviour. Tongans are in general religious, modest and conservative so out of respect consider wearing clothes that cover you up, at accommodation options the dress code is more relaxed.
• If you intend to go to a church service pack a set of smart clothes and shoes.

Personal Note
Tonga remains a destination for those who are happy to take a country as they find it, there is tourism infrastructure but Tonga is not as developed or as tourist orientated as its Pacific neighbours Rarotonga and Samoa. With the closure of Scenic Hotel near the airport on the main island of Tongatapu, Tanoa International Dateline Hotel in Nuku'alofa has filled the gap for a large and modern hotel, however don't expect to find a swim up bar or a focus on cocktails. Tonga's accommodation is in general at the budget - mid range level, but that doesn't mean you won't be pleasantly surprised.

Package deals from New Zealand for accommodation and flights can offer really good value for money and overall Tonga is an inexpensive destination. Over 30% of Tonga's GDP comes from family living overseas supplementing the income of their Tongan relatives. As such travelling to Tonga and supporting locals by taking taxis, buying locally made craft work and souvenirs, purchasing local coffee, coconuts, food etc helps the local people and the economy.

PS. This guide only covers the main island Tongatapu and three small islands nearby. We are obviously missing out on experiences by not going to the outer islands like 'Eua and Vavau, however we have always enjoyed our time in Tonga on the main island. As mentioned here before, we'd recommend hiring a car if you base yourself in Nuku'alofa, and if you're looking for a beach based stay see the accommodation options at Ha'atafu Beach or consider taking a short boat ride to either Fafa Island Resort or Royal Sunset Island Resort.

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